Southern New England - Connecticut River Valley & The Shore

If you have not yet been to New England there is more to see that in possible in a single vacation. In fact it is quite difficult to see "most" of averting in a series of vacations. New England has something for everyone and is not primarily for leaf peepers, and tour buses headed for the casinos. There is something for the whole family from lengthy stays at the beach to amusement parks, fine and family dining, historic and interactive museums and more.

Our travel BLOG we will focus on the New England Coast. We had planned on launching the site via "The Shore" as it is most commonly called but most variations were taken so we decided on "The New England Coast". Our first entry will focus on The Southern New England Coast and the State of Connecticut.

Connecticut's Shore-Around and East of the Connecticut

If arriving from New York and points south interstate 95 can be and usually is a nightmare. 5 lines of pure hell traffic enough to deter even the most veteran of travelers from visit one of the nation's true jewels. When first "coming over" the border from New York to New England one feels a sigh of relief, perhaps it is just me but the feeling of more relaxing times to come. Traveling on 95 as it is called by most living along this highway of traffic... one sees little of classic New England. Driving through tree lined swaths of highway dotted with exit signs to Greenwich, Old Greenwich and so on until modern Stamford, old Bridgeport (in a renaissance), then New Haven (also in a renaissance) and traffic through Branford. Not until you arrive in the town of Guilford is there a "possible" break in traffic. If traffic is heavy we suggest you exit here and follow Route 1 North to complete your journey. Although you will travel slower than you may like the scenery is ideal. Historic Homes, marshlands and osprey nests dot the southern side. As you continue into Guilford a fine New England town green greets you, surrounded by shops, cafe's and restaurants. Any is worth the stop and the kids (if along for the voyage) will love running around on the town green. More on Guilford and the area in a later BLOG.

After a rest continue on Route 1 north through Madison, another historic town near the shore. Madison also features historic homes, all types of dining and shopping. A stop here is also ideal or continue through, we will touch base on Madison in later BLOGS. Madison is the home to Hammonasset State Park ,  The largest state beach on the shore. It fills quickly in the summer so get there early. Follow Route 1 through the charming seaside town of Clinton. Route 1 cuts right through the historic center and once you arrive in the eastern section of this town you have reached the Connecticut River Valley at the Shore. Clinton features outlet mall shopping just minutes from Route 1 and seconds off of 95. Luxury items at discounted rates can be found at the Clinton Factory Stores. Please remember if not used to shopping at outlets, they can be busy, somewhat impersonal and the quality while carrying the brand is usually somewhat lower than "off the shelf" at your local store types. However good bargains can be found here. Polo Ralph Lauren and Nike are usually the busiest. Brooks Brothers , Saks Off 5th and Le Gourmet Chef as well as Barneys are also worth the trip. Clinton's historic center on route 1 features traditional New England Colonial styles. The town green had statues honoring those who fought in the Civil War (1861-65) and at the Town Beach (open to all) there in old ship building district are several painfully restored homes and a cannon that was used to defend Stonington, Connecticut in the War of 1812.  Dining stops include coffee shops, breakfast nooks where locals rub elbows and a pretty good grinder (sub/hoagie) . Route 1 North features several dining stops each worthy of the trip. To get the real New England shore feeling head toward Bills in Westbrook. Bill's is a traditional seafood shack offering just about everything fried. Always busy in the summer months, reasonably priced and fine views of the Westbrook singing bridge.  Called the singing bridge as when it opens and cars drive it... sounds of summer are abundant.

Wine Tasting?
Clinton features wine tasting at Chamard Vineyards featuring an excellent array of award winning wines from the father of the Connecticut Wine Trail. Chamard features a tasting room and is worth the trip.

Onward- Route 1 North:

After dining on whole belly clams, fried platter and having enjoyed the local sights of Clinton head on Route 1 north and proceed through Westbrook. Arriving at Westbrook center, greeted again by a church and a small "downtown" Westbrook is a sleepy New England shore town. For shoppers the Westbrook Outlets managed by Tangier offer JCrew and other national brands and is located off 95 and minutes from Route 1. I would save this and Clinton for the return voyage or the day you leave. Follow Westbrook through to Old Saybrook known for it's colonial charm, marshes and cornfield point and lighthouses. Saybrook as called by the locals is based on the shore and the banks of the Connecticut River and is one the larger shoreline towns (other than the cities). While on Route 1 stop off and park anywhere in the downtown area. Signs marking downtown"- historic district dot the roadside. While on Main street please head on over to the James Gallery and Soda Fountain . Housed in a former 1790's tavern called the Humphrey Pratt Tavern the soda fountain features early 20th century treats and atmosphere as well as having been the business of the first African American female pharmacist from 1917 Miss Anna Louise James. She ran the business for more than 50 years. Head on to Cornfield point by following signs for Cornfield Pt and Ft.Saybrook. Ft.Saybrook was the first english settlement after the area was first explored by dutch captain Adrian Block in 1614. Ft.Saybrook offers walking paths and great views of the Connecticut River and Long Island Sound. Proceed over the causeway toward Cornfield Pt and in this enclave of old New England money Katherine Hepburn's home now finely restored and a private residence  is on your immediate left. Other victorian era homes dot the neighborhood and croquet is still played on the lawn by the residences. SUGGESTION: Stop off at the Saybrook Pointe Inn & Spa enjoy a nice meal or massage at the resort's Terra Mar Grille & Spa while enjoying views of the marina and the fine boats and Cornfield Point & Lighthouse. Bicycling around Cornfield Point is ideal and there is little traffic.

After finishing a nice day in Old Saybrook proceed up Route 1 and head onto 95. Following over the Connecticut River and take the first exit the Old Lyme Exit 70. At the end follow toward the right and look for Ferry Road. Follow Ferry Road to the shore and view Old Saybrook and Cornfield Point from the other side. The DEP Marine center offers picnicking space and a long boardwalk with signage detailing the wildlife found in the area as well as the echo-system. Fishermen and bird watchers are popular here. While traveling back up Ferry Road you will notice an old restored home at the foot of the road. This was earlier the Ferry Tavern that was operative throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. Follow to route 156 and follow toward the right. From here there are two opportunities... 1- follow onward to Hallmark Ice Cream, the regions and perhaps the countries best ice cream and views or 2- follow to the next left and follow signs for Historic Village. Old Lyme's Historic village  was once the center of shipbuilding and trade commerce. Fortunes were made from colonial times and the fine homes in the village show this. Another fine ice cream store calls Lyme Street (main road) home and is worth a stop. Follow 156 through Old Lyme center and head for the center for American Art Impressionism the Florence Griswold Museum and Lyme Academy of Art. Here some of America's foremost impressionist artists works can be found and their inspiration can be seen. Next door is the Bee & Thistle  offering local fare at the top quality. Voted as one of the most romantic restaurants in the state year after year... and across the street is the victorian Old Lyme Inn
another fine dining establishment with a well appreciated local pub. Further up lies the old route 1 and Sill lane. Sill lane named after the Sill family whom where prominent patriots in the American Revolution. Here the 1690 Peck Tavern welcomes guests. Stop in and say hello... .

Route 1 then heads toward East Lyme and Route 156 to the Village of Niantic. This area along with the region of New London and Groton will be covered in a future BLOG. Below are list of some activities for the adventurous, the more feint at heart and some suggestions. There is lots more to do in the areas mentioned so spend some time and ask the locals as they are proud to let you know of some hidden gems.

Outdoors:
*BlackHall Marina- Old Lyme: Kayaking and Canoing. See where Benjamin Franklin first viewed The Turtle -the first submarine designed in Old Saybrook and used in the American Revolution. Relaxation, secluded beaches and historic home views.
*Ft.Saybrook- Old Saybrook: State park with short but excellent walking trails. Views of the Conn. River and Long Island Sound, walking distance to Cornfield Point and the Marshes.
*Hammonasset State Park-Madison: State beach area, open spanses with camp sites available.
*Outdoor shopping: Madison, Clinton, Westbrook
(small but quaint), Old Saybrook and Old Lyme (small but quaint).

Dining:

*Bills Seafood-Westbrook:
New England fried clams and other. Outdoor dining. Enjoy the views over dinner or a drink.
*Water's Edge-Westbrook: Having received a "Very Good" from the Ny Times that says enough of this completely restored Spa, Restaurant and Inn aka. Resort.
*Cafe Routier-Westbrook: A classic French Bistro with a hint of Americana.
*Vinny's Fish House-Old Saybrook: The latest edition to dining in Old Saybrook. Having replaced a local favorite the "Saybrook Fish House"  Vinny's offers standard seafood fare and has both indoor and outdoor dining in a completely restored very handsome location. Pub also included in the building. Owned by former NBA star Vin Baker an Old Saybrook native! Can be ideal for the family!
*Pat's Kountry Kitchen-Old Saybrook: ideal for the family and a local icon in dining. The parking lot is always full and service pretty good too!
*Terra Mar-Old Saybrook: Located at the Saybrook Pointe Spa, Terra Mar offers the shoreline a blend of American-Northern Italian fare. Indoor and outdoor dining. Great views of the Sound and Marina. Ideal for that romantic date.
*Dock &Dine-Old Saybrook: While the food is ok, this local legend that needs a face lift or two is ok for families. Views of the Conn.River help this make the list and add mini-golf for the kids! Worthy of a stop.
*Penny Lane Pub-Old Saybrook: Pub fare
*Aleia's-Old Saybrook: Mediterranean contemporary! Have excellent deserts!
*Old Lyme Inn-Old Lyme: Tap Room and Library Bar add a tremendous ambiance to this fine dining establishment. Famous for luncheons in the luncheon room. Seafood is the rule here. Ideal for a romantic dinner.
*Bee & Thistle-Old Lyme: Another romantic spot in a 1756 mansion. Bee & Thistle offers local produce and cheeses as well as a really outstanding ever changing menu.
*Sherlock's 221-Old Lyme: Formerly Ann's Kitchen Sherlock's is ideal for couples and for older aged children 10+. Bistro fare in a comfortable environment.
*CherryStones-Old Lyme: A local favorite. Why not take Friday off hit some golf balls and then enjoy the endless happy hour buffet? Cherrystones has been an institution for locals for decades. Standard 1980's decor but the food is worth it. Ideal for families with children!
*Alforno-Old Saybrook: Excellent Pizza and Italian Fare! Great service, great smells and great prices! ideal for the family!

Advice:
Places like Westbrook Lobster Company can be tempting and many people enjoy it. We have found the noise level to be above and beyond "family restaurant" tolerability. More like a fast food seafood house with little creativity. Lobster is ok. Aqua in Clinton is another place that reminds us of when we ate out with our parents. Decor reminiscent of 1980 with brown captain's chairs and a menu to match. The views and service make it enjoyable but this tired old ship is like many in the northeast.

Sound View Beach in Old Lyme may sound appealing and is undergoing a bit of a renaissance however this former summer cottage village has seen better times. While many of the buildings have been vacant or torn down there are a few beach product shops around. The Pavilion Bar is a throw back to the 1980's beach bar scene when Body Glove ruled the scene. Next door is a new seafood restaurant that we have yet to try. However earlier it was a biker bar complete with a chain link fence to save the sunbathers from the odd beer bottle or cigarette butt. Advice... move past this area and continue on toward Niantic.

Sweet Tooth?:
For those with the sweet tooth some suggestions include Hallmark Ice Cream in Old Lyme, Old Lyme Ice Cream Shoppe on Lyme Street and Vecchitto's an old fashioned, old style Italian ice shop in the Sound View section of Old Lyme.

Where to Stay:
Being a traditional New England area Bed & Breakfasts rule the day. Each is nice and worth a stay. Capt.Stannard Inn & Peck Tavern are popular as are the Timothy Pratt B&B.  Some hotels can be found in Old Saybrook and Westbrook (Super 8, Days Inn) which are ideal and cost friendly for the families while Water's Edge and Saybrook Pointe are ideal for that getaway and are expensive but worth every penny. Your best bet it to check out www.bedandbreakfast.com for listings of B&B's to stay in.

Recommendations:

Couples
:

Saybrook Pointe Inn & Spa: Expensive but a great location and full spa services. Ideal for couples.
Old Lyme Inn: Also a more expensive location to stay. Ideal for couples.
Bee & Thistle: Another expensive Inn. Ideal for couples.
Water's Edge: A full service resort. Ideal for couples.

Families:

Day's Inn
Super 8
Knights Inn

All offer standard Hotel/Motel services and are affordable. They fill up fast!

B&B/Inn:

Deacon Timothy Pratt B&B (Saybrook)
Welcome Inn B&B (Westbrook)
Westbrook Inn B&B (Westbrook)
Angel's Watch Inn (Westbrook)
Capt.Stannard House (Westbrook)
Talcott Inn (Westbrook)
Peck Tavern (Old Lyme)


Places to Go-out:

We have to be honest with you... many of the hot spots and primarily laid back dining places. There are some nice places to enjoy a drink. Old Saybrook features the tavern at Terra Mar Grille. Well maid cocktails and views of the marina while Penny Lane Pub on MainStreet offers British Pub fare with a twist. Great selection of beers and a nice environment. Old Saybrook also offers Vinny's Fish House which has a nice sports bar and excellent selection of beers. Old Lyme has CherryStones and the Hideaway Pub. Slightly further afield are Essex and New London that offer a full array of entertainment. We will touch base on those places in feature blogs.


Let us know what you think and as we go along and sample more of the local fare and places to stay...we will post updates! Onward and eastward toward Niantic and greater New London!







 

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