Onward to Niantic / East Lyme
Onward to New London Towne:
After departing Old Lyme and the "Lymes" head on either Route 156 toward Niantic village or US Route 1 toward Flanders. Let's start at the first alternative. As you remember we touched based on the Sound View section of Old Lyme and Cherrystones. On this very same route follow for about 5 miles until you reach an "intersection". Here are a few hold homes and a barn, a sign to I-95 and one toward Niantic. Follow toward Niantic. Note... at this intersection which was and is historically known as South Lyme Center (part of Old Lyme) the home to the left was the home of ship captain William Chadwick who sailed the seas in the early 1800's. He and his wife shared letters which have been saved and recorded in a fantastic book called "My dear affectionate wife"... worth a read. Follow through South Lyme toward Rocky Neck State Park,
a fantastic creation of nature and the CCC during the great depression. Rocky Neck is open to the public for a fee of course and can be quite busy on warm summer weekends. The campground is clean and very popular. Long trails for walking and light hiking are available as are concessions of the typical variety hot dogs, soda etc... A quick note on Rocky Neck... at the main enterance once stood the Griswold Mansion or "Bride Brook Mansion" or "Farm". Built around 1750 it was the home to Andrew Griswold a local veteran of the American Revolution. He served in the army and coast guard throughout the war and lies in Old Stone Church Burial Ground in Niantic. As you enter Rocky Neck there are some caves when hiking. These caves held Tories (those local to the crown during the war of independence) and their supplies. Perhaps for hiding from local patriots or for trading with Long Island tories. Also during prohibition this area held nice hiding spots for rum runners and other dealers of the illegal kind. Rocky Neck Pavilion built by the CCC can be rented for events and offers nice views of the surrounding shoreline.
Exiting Rocky Neck head toward Niantic but please stop by the Thomas Lee house the oldest wood frame house in Connecticut. Dating from 1660 the Lee family were prominent citizens and it is know run by the East Lyme Historical Society and is open for tours in the summer. Right next door is the Little Boston School House. A 1720's school house formerly located across the street. It was used into the 20th century and was the first school district between NY and Boston. Also a barn featuring Lee descendent Ezra the captain of the first submarine the turtle exhibit and noted friend of George Washington and one who had befriended Benjamin Franklin during testing of the turtle in the 1770s.
Follow 156 toward the village of Niantic. At the four corners at Niantic Center School is the Silver Skate Christmas Shop an icon and favorite of locals and tourists alike for generations. For the wee ones the Children's Museum of Southeastern Connecticut is a hot spot and always full of energy. Housed in an old 19th century building the museum offers lots for the wee ones and is worth a stop. Follow to downtown. Here you pass a 1930s movie theater and some village shops. The Village of Niantic was boosted in 2005 by the addition of the "free" yes free Boardwalk a 1 mile long pathway along the shoreline that has become very popular. At the town grown aptly called Liberty Green you will notice a large building to your left. This building the Morton House was built by rail road tycoon Morton Plant for his summer guests and at the turn of the last century was noted for it's shore dinners (lobster, clams etc...). Restored with a new restaurant below the Morton House is Niantic. Take a walk on the boardwalk, parking available downtown or at the Niantic River Bridge. The village of Niantic was a summer spot and had a trolley line back in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Many of the fine homes are now gone, victims of 1950s progress. A few can be seen but many are long gone.
The Beach?
Niantic has other beaches in addition to Rocky Neck. McCooks a town beach is now open to the masses. However getting a pass can be trying. If you are lucky enough and have the will enough to get a pass (via parks and rec in East Lyme) the park is a nice area for kids, families to enjoy a bbq or picnic. The point (highest point) once held the house of Judge McCook who had a large turn of the century mansion here. Now gone as it was deemed too costly to maintain in the 1950's the land was given to the town of East Lyme for public use. On the road up to the park you will see a large old building. This was a sanitarium at the turn of the last century (Yellow Fever etc...). A small placard shows "indian springs" a spring where an Indian Princess once drank water. In the sound a rock called "Wigwam" was a ceremonial / bridal celebration rock used by the Nehantic people. On the right of the main enterance to the park is an open area and "indian pond" where dozens of remains of Nehantic people were found during an excavation. This area is sacred and must be respected. Crescent Beach adjacent to McCooks is lined with the Elms Hotel and other 1890's structures that survived the great Hurricane of 1938 and some that didn't. This is a private beach but can be used with some cunning & slye!
(park on the street and walk). If you follow the road around past crescent and take South Washington to the left you will see dozens of Victorian cottages and old hotels mostly to the right side of the street. The beach side were all destroyed during the Hurricane of 1938.
Other beaches of note is the Hole in the Wall part of the McCooks system and Railroad Beach at the River enterance. This is a small but free to use beach and has the great view of Millstone Power Plant. Otherwise Niantic features a sleepy New England shore town that is fighting to add some vibrancy. Worth a drive thru and some history of note here such as the Tory House (Pattagansett Drive) where Elisha Beckwith went off with the British Regulars when they attacked neaby New London and Groton in 1781 and was later captured, the Old Stone Church Burial Ground featuring many of the 18th centuries prominent and less so residents. Moses Warren surveyor of the Ohio Territory and judge, Rev.George Griswold of the Great Awakening fame, several French & Indian War (1756-63) and Revolutionary War as well as War of 1812 veterans lie here. The Old Stone Church is now gone but it's stone was used to build the wall around the cemetary and also the fireplace at the Children's Museum. The Smith-Harris House in Niantic near the burial ground is registered on the National Register of Historic Places and features tours and events throughout the summer. In Flanders to the north a couple of notable historic spots are where McDonald's now stands was once the Calkin's Tavern built around 1700 and torn down in the mid 1970s. It features the stopping place of many distinguished guests including Marquis de Lafayette and his French soldiers as well as hundreds of Washington's men and likely Washington and Gen.Joseph Spencer. Farther up Route 1 toward Old Lyme again is the old Baptist Church Bell and Rev.Smith's 1690 house.
Where to Eat?
Niantic until lately offered Pizza or Chinese food to be frank. In the past few years other places have popped up and the following are on my list of recommendations:
*Dad's Restaurant-Niantic: Located on 156 facing the LI Sound Dad's offers expensive whole belly clams and a traditional New England Shack style environment.
*Grandpa's Bakery-Niantic: In the center of the village great bread and pastries. The building and surroundings do need improvement.
*Pizza Cucina-East Lyme/Flanders: On Route 1, excellent pizza!
OTHER:
Notes on other places..Constantines in Niantic offers a standard dinner menu and decent environment. Nothing incredible, nothing terrible. Flander's Fish House-East Lyme offers all types of fresh fish dinners. Once a cozy little fish house in a small 1890s home it has been enlarged to handle the masses and buses. Can be loud but the food is good but the place is not that quaint anymore. Good for "family dining". The Chinese restaurants are all decent offering your standard fare. Sushi restaurant in Flanders is very good as well. Hartford Giant Grinder in Niantic is excellent and ideal for taking it to the beach! Worth a stop... The old Sea Shell Restaurant on Penn Ave has been redone at this point we have not yet visited it but it appears to be a bistro. We will check in on them this summer.
Sweet Tooth?
Flanders Bakery- Located in Flanders , the bakery is housed in a 1960s strip mall. However the donuts and coffee are great! Pass up D&D and Hortons for this one. Maple and Apple donuts, bagels and pastries are GRRRREAT! Suggestion grab some goodies and head for the boardwalk to enjoy!
Village Bake House- Baked Goods... Sandwiches! Pretty Good Stuff.
Others:
Dairy Queen, Frosty Treat - standard "licking" ice creams and shakes!
Apples and More?
Some hidden gems in Niantic are Scott's Orchard pick your own berries, apples and more. On Route 1 in East Lyme a nice stop, nice farm shop and great fruit and apple donuts! Scotty's in Niantic located off Pattagansett and near Crescent Beach... the world's best Butter and Sugar Corn! Worth a stop in the summer months. Just minutes from the Silver Skate Christmas Shop.
Where to Stay?
B&B's have finally come to the area. 14 Lincoln and the Harborview Inn at Niantic Bay are two of the best. Both offer oustanding accommodations and great breakfasts! For the family: National Chain hotels are available at the junction of 95 and Flanders Road.
Some highlights of Niantic/East Lyme
Harbor in at Niantic Bay ** Overlook ** Thomas Lee House ** Little Boston School
Silver Skate Xmas ** Marina at Niantic Bay ** 14 St. Lincoln Inn ** Downtown Niantic
After departing Old Lyme and the "Lymes" head on either Route 156 toward Niantic village or US Route 1 toward Flanders. Let's start at the first alternative. As you remember we touched based on the Sound View section of Old Lyme and Cherrystones. On this very same route follow for about 5 miles until you reach an "intersection". Here are a few hold homes and a barn, a sign to I-95 and one toward Niantic. Follow toward Niantic. Note... at this intersection which was and is historically known as South Lyme Center (part of Old Lyme) the home to the left was the home of ship captain William Chadwick who sailed the seas in the early 1800's. He and his wife shared letters which have been saved and recorded in a fantastic book called "My dear affectionate wife"... worth a read. Follow through South Lyme toward Rocky Neck State Park,
a fantastic creation of nature and the CCC during the great depression. Rocky Neck is open to the public for a fee of course and can be quite busy on warm summer weekends. The campground is clean and very popular. Long trails for walking and light hiking are available as are concessions of the typical variety hot dogs, soda etc... A quick note on Rocky Neck... at the main enterance once stood the Griswold Mansion or "Bride Brook Mansion" or "Farm". Built around 1750 it was the home to Andrew Griswold a local veteran of the American Revolution. He served in the army and coast guard throughout the war and lies in Old Stone Church Burial Ground in Niantic. As you enter Rocky Neck there are some caves when hiking. These caves held Tories (those local to the crown during the war of independence) and their supplies. Perhaps for hiding from local patriots or for trading with Long Island tories. Also during prohibition this area held nice hiding spots for rum runners and other dealers of the illegal kind. Rocky Neck Pavilion built by the CCC can be rented for events and offers nice views of the surrounding shoreline. Exiting Rocky Neck head toward Niantic but please stop by the Thomas Lee house the oldest wood frame house in Connecticut. Dating from 1660 the Lee family were prominent citizens and it is know run by the East Lyme Historical Society and is open for tours in the summer. Right next door is the Little Boston School House. A 1720's school house formerly located across the street. It was used into the 20th century and was the first school district between NY and Boston. Also a barn featuring Lee descendent Ezra the captain of the first submarine the turtle exhibit and noted friend of George Washington and one who had befriended Benjamin Franklin during testing of the turtle in the 1770s.
Follow 156 toward the village of Niantic. At the four corners at Niantic Center School is the Silver Skate Christmas Shop an icon and favorite of locals and tourists alike for generations. For the wee ones the Children's Museum of Southeastern Connecticut is a hot spot and always full of energy. Housed in an old 19th century building the museum offers lots for the wee ones and is worth a stop. Follow to downtown. Here you pass a 1930s movie theater and some village shops. The Village of Niantic was boosted in 2005 by the addition of the "free" yes free Boardwalk a 1 mile long pathway along the shoreline that has become very popular. At the town grown aptly called Liberty Green you will notice a large building to your left. This building the Morton House was built by rail road tycoon Morton Plant for his summer guests and at the turn of the last century was noted for it's shore dinners (lobster, clams etc...). Restored with a new restaurant below the Morton House is Niantic. Take a walk on the boardwalk, parking available downtown or at the Niantic River Bridge. The village of Niantic was a summer spot and had a trolley line back in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Many of the fine homes are now gone, victims of 1950s progress. A few can be seen but many are long gone.
The Beach?
Niantic has other beaches in addition to Rocky Neck. McCooks a town beach is now open to the masses. However getting a pass can be trying. If you are lucky enough and have the will enough to get a pass (via parks and rec in East Lyme) the park is a nice area for kids, families to enjoy a bbq or picnic. The point (highest point) once held the house of Judge McCook who had a large turn of the century mansion here. Now gone as it was deemed too costly to maintain in the 1950's the land was given to the town of East Lyme for public use. On the road up to the park you will see a large old building. This was a sanitarium at the turn of the last century (Yellow Fever etc...). A small placard shows "indian springs" a spring where an Indian Princess once drank water. In the sound a rock called "Wigwam" was a ceremonial / bridal celebration rock used by the Nehantic people. On the right of the main enterance to the park is an open area and "indian pond" where dozens of remains of Nehantic people were found during an excavation. This area is sacred and must be respected. Crescent Beach adjacent to McCooks is lined with the Elms Hotel and other 1890's structures that survived the great Hurricane of 1938 and some that didn't. This is a private beach but can be used with some cunning & slye!
(park on the street and walk). If you follow the road around past crescent and take South Washington to the left you will see dozens of Victorian cottages and old hotels mostly to the right side of the street. The beach side were all destroyed during the Hurricane of 1938.Other beaches of note is the Hole in the Wall part of the McCooks system and Railroad Beach at the River enterance. This is a small but free to use beach and has the great view of Millstone Power Plant. Otherwise Niantic features a sleepy New England shore town that is fighting to add some vibrancy. Worth a drive thru and some history of note here such as the Tory House (Pattagansett Drive) where Elisha Beckwith went off with the British Regulars when they attacked neaby New London and Groton in 1781 and was later captured, the Old Stone Church Burial Ground featuring many of the 18th centuries prominent and less so residents. Moses Warren surveyor of the Ohio Territory and judge, Rev.George Griswold of the Great Awakening fame, several French & Indian War (1756-63) and Revolutionary War as well as War of 1812 veterans lie here. The Old Stone Church is now gone but it's stone was used to build the wall around the cemetary and also the fireplace at the Children's Museum. The Smith-Harris House in Niantic near the burial ground is registered on the National Register of Historic Places and features tours and events throughout the summer. In Flanders to the north a couple of notable historic spots are where McDonald's now stands was once the Calkin's Tavern built around 1700 and torn down in the mid 1970s. It features the stopping place of many distinguished guests including Marquis de Lafayette and his French soldiers as well as hundreds of Washington's men and likely Washington and Gen.Joseph Spencer. Farther up Route 1 toward Old Lyme again is the old Baptist Church Bell and Rev.Smith's 1690 house.
Where to Eat?
Niantic until lately offered Pizza or Chinese food to be frank. In the past few years other places have popped up and the following are on my list of recommendations:
*Dad's Restaurant-Niantic: Located on 156 facing the LI Sound Dad's offers expensive whole belly clams and a traditional New England Shack style environment.
*Grandpa's Bakery-Niantic: In the center of the village great bread and pastries. The building and surroundings do need improvement.
*Pizza Cucina-East Lyme/Flanders: On Route 1, excellent pizza!
OTHER:
Notes on other places..Constantines in Niantic offers a standard dinner menu and decent environment. Nothing incredible, nothing terrible. Flander's Fish House-East Lyme offers all types of fresh fish dinners. Once a cozy little fish house in a small 1890s home it has been enlarged to handle the masses and buses. Can be loud but the food is good but the place is not that quaint anymore. Good for "family dining". The Chinese restaurants are all decent offering your standard fare. Sushi restaurant in Flanders is very good as well. Hartford Giant Grinder in Niantic is excellent and ideal for taking it to the beach! Worth a stop... The old Sea Shell Restaurant on Penn Ave has been redone at this point we have not yet visited it but it appears to be a bistro. We will check in on them this summer.
Sweet Tooth?
Flanders Bakery- Located in Flanders , the bakery is housed in a 1960s strip mall. However the donuts and coffee are great! Pass up D&D and Hortons for this one. Maple and Apple donuts, bagels and pastries are GRRRREAT! Suggestion grab some goodies and head for the boardwalk to enjoy!
Village Bake House- Baked Goods... Sandwiches! Pretty Good Stuff.
Others:
Dairy Queen, Frosty Treat - standard "licking" ice creams and shakes!
Apples and More?
Some hidden gems in Niantic are Scott's Orchard pick your own berries, apples and more. On Route 1 in East Lyme a nice stop, nice farm shop and great fruit and apple donuts! Scotty's in Niantic located off Pattagansett and near Crescent Beach... the world's best Butter and Sugar Corn! Worth a stop in the summer months. Just minutes from the Silver Skate Christmas Shop.
Where to Stay?
B&B's have finally come to the area. 14 Lincoln and the Harborview Inn at Niantic Bay are two of the best. Both offer oustanding accommodations and great breakfasts! For the family: National Chain hotels are available at the junction of 95 and Flanders Road.
Some highlights of Niantic/East Lyme
Harbor in at Niantic Bay ** Overlook ** Thomas Lee House ** Little Boston School
Silver Skate Xmas ** Marina at Niantic Bay ** 14 St. Lincoln Inn ** Downtown Niantic
Oops! While you were tracking down all those donuts, you missed the biggest used book store in New England, spread across two locations on Rte 156 Book Barn & Book Barn Downtown. Cats, goats, dogs, turtles, guinea pigs, and not incidentally New England's best and largest selection of used books on a converted 1811 farm and in a former 50's-style Chinese restaurant. No worries: free coffee and donuts, too, buddy...
Very true. I actually stopped by the Book Barn on W.Main near Main Brace and purchased a few books. My mother is a loyal customer as well. I was actually planning do a sort of "review" of the book barn at a later date.
the seashell has been sold and is now a very overpriced bistro the previous owners Charlie and penny) have moved across from the big book barn on west main street. its called the nianic diner and it has great food at a reasonable price. its almost as good as the shack!
Yes very true and thanks. We went to eat at the old seashell last summer and it was closed. The menu was a bit pricey for Niantic but we will be happy to check out the old Kelly*s/Lachstring!
Thx!