After leaving Waterford on Route 156 follow toward New London. While the sites surrounding you are typical of an old suburbian almost urban area with little to see follow to the crest of Town Hill with a vew while driving of New London's skyline. Town Hill was once an earthened fort during colonial times and afforded the town defense against land and sea invasion. Used during the burning of New London Town Hill Fort as it was called then had a cannon and several militia firing on the ravaging British & Hessian Troops in 1781. Nothing remains intact today of this earthened works but one could only imagine at that time what it may have looked like. An 1813 Lithograph from the same area shows what New London looked like in that time. From here you will enter New London or more aptly called "The Whaling City".

The Whaling City and Origins

The Whaling City received it's name from it's reign as the number two Whaling City during the hayday only behind New Bedford in number of Whaling Ships homeported in New London. New London was founded by John Winthrop Jr. of Mass Bay Colony around 1646. Winthrop Jr. was the son of the governor of Mass Bay Colony and well respected John Winthrop. At the time of arrival by Winthrop the area was inhabited by Pequot peoples with Nehantic Tribes living to the immediate west in Niantic / Waterford and Mohegans to the north in Quaker Hill.  New London quickly established itself after having been called Pequot for a short time in the 1600s as a center of ship building and maritime trade. New London grew, having one of the best deep water ports in the North Eastern colonies at that time. New London had two main areas of business during the 1700s that being Bank Street or "The Bank" and the other eventually called "State Street" running up to the modern day court house. Many New London citizens including Nathan Hale one of the most revered patriots during the American Revolution taught school here fropm 1774 to 1775 before joining the cause. During the American Revolution New London was the center of the Privateering activities, paid "piracy" where the private businessman could outfit a ship and raid english supply ships, commissions were paid on the haul and many a man made a great profit including New London's Shaw family. New London was the center of the Connecticut Navy during the war and felt the brunt during the Raid by Norwich Native and notorious traitor Benedict Arnold  where the city was left in ruins in 1781, troops in Groton were massacred and city left helpless. During later wars New London also played a role and in the early to mid 1800s became a center of Whaling activity. With more than 80 ships homeported in New London the economy boomed, fine mansions dotted the streets and business thrived. Many of the buildings of current New London are relicts of the Whaling Era and looked very much like they did in that era.

New London thrived and then suffered and thrived again and always focused on the sea. In the early 1900s Naval Submarine Base New London (Groton) came on line and the hand of re-invention once again kissed New London. New London after ww2 suffered from the movement of population to the suburbs but this left intact many fine buildings and markers of the historic past. Over the past 10 years a great effort has been undertaken to restore these period gems and now a new sense of vibrancy exhudes from the waterfront. Shops, cafes, galleries and restaurants now fill the waterfront and state street areas.

New London has several areas to visit and we shall concentrate on the major areas that are easily accessed by foot once you have parked. A trolley operated during the summer time can help walk you through the major sites of New London.

City Center & Historic District

The city center known as the areas between and around Bank and State Street dates from the earliest times. After the burning of the city in 1781 by Arnold the city took years to rebuild itself so few of the buildings remain from that period. One of which is on Blinman Street and is easily seen off Bank Street to your left when entering from Town Hill. The Shaw Mansion dating to 1756 was the home of the wealthy Shaw Family headed by Thomas and Nathaniel Shaw. During colonial times this was waterfront property and the Shaw's could view their wharf and ships from their windows. George Washington was a guest here before and during the American Revolution. It is now home to the New London County Historical Society and is open for tours. From here you can park and head toward the thriving Bank Street area on foot. In just a few moments you are heading to the thriving district with the smell of the sea air and historic buildings being brought back to life all around you. Many of the shops on the east side of the road (waterside) are the former homes of Whaling Captains, Banks, and Merchant shops supplying that trade.
Some examples are:

While walking on Bank Street you will notice there are several water access points. Each of these leads to the Water Street Area a Historic area with a beautiful waterfront walk with piers and slips. Filled with festival goers during the season this is an ideal area to just relax. Following Bank Street you will come up the historic Buckley Tavern a ca.1796 House built by Capt. Buckley a ships captain and veteran of the American Revolution. Now housing a locals favorite restaurant the Tavern is a relict of times long gone. Next to the restaurant is a former restaurant and previous chandlery that served whaling masters with supply during the Whaling era. Saved by activists and now a destination for cutting edge art the Hygienic houses an ever changing array of art and it's art park is second to none.

(Hygienic Gardens)  Hygienic Art Park
  ca. 1796 Buckley Tavern

Also on Bank Street is arguably one of the finest Wine & Spirit Cellars anywhere. Housed in a ca.1800 building that was quite possibly a rum distillery the Thames Wine & Spirit shop and adjacent Brie & Bleu Restaurant is second to none. Please patronize these places as they are fantastic and friendly people offering a great product.

Thames Wine & Spirits Cellar

Deck overlooking the Thames River at Brie & Bleu.

Following Bank Street you will see the old Capitol Theater now being renovated into a concert hall. Once a home to summer theater for many of the Hollywood and New York's top stars the Capitol looks to be added to the listing of restored gems of New London and America. 

New London's Capitol Theater on Bank Street

1833 Custom House on Bank Street

Also on Bank Street and almost across from the Shaw Mansion is the 1833 Robert Mills Custom's House the oldest continuously operated Customs House in America and the site of the landing of La Amistad which helped force the end of slavery in the United States. Tours are available and one display shows the Howard family, a whaling families collection of furniture. Worth a stop!

HH Richardson Union Station  SailFest in New London on Bank Street

Once arriving at the head of Bank and State Street to your immediate left is the HH Richardson Union Station, the central hub for transport in a historic train station designed by America's foremost architect HH Richardson. From the station access to Ferry's to Long Island, Block and Fisher's Island are here and the historic Waterfront area. Views from this area show you what Whaling Masters would have seen upon returning from a sometimes 3 year stint "Whaling". Heading up state street a line of historic building now being restored or housing apartments, galleries and shops line the street front. The Nathan Hale schoolhouse sits at the parade. Showing a one room school house from colonial times and ran by Nathan Hale in 1774-75 the school house is open for tours. Some of the jewels are the Crocker House built on the site of the Nathan Hale School House now located on the parade, restored into businesses and apartments the Crocker House was once a hotel where presidents from Grant to Teddy Roosevelt once stayed. Also the Bacon House a former hotel and now residences as well as farther up the street New London's first and only "skyscraper" the Mohegan a former hotel and shopping center. Further up State Street and manning the top of the hill is the 1787 Court House. Built on the spot where the former court house once stood, burned by British soldiers in 1781. From here one can venture to the left on Huntington Street toward Washington Street where historic homes and now offices of lawyers stand. Named after Aide De Camp to General Washington, Brig. Gen. Jedediah Huntington  whose house once stood to the right hand corner of Broad and Huntington and was torn down nearly 60 years ago.

Heading off on Huntington to the north (right of Court House) the famous Whale Oil Row stands. The Whale Oil Row  are four homes built in Grecian Revival Style by Whaling Masters in the mid 1800s. These are now private offices but one can ask politely to visit. Heading back toward the court house and past it is the old Southern New England Telephone Exchange building now housing higher end rental housing. Restored in 2003 these are very popular. Just to the left on Washington Street one will notice the row houses, or similar style homes lining the street. Mostly built during the Whaling Era these were homes to ship's masters. Follow up toward the center of New London again there is the New London Landmarks Building housed in a 1790's doctor's house, restored to the finest detail. Open for discussions and information on New London the Landmarks house is a fine example of what once stood in colonial times. Not far from this place is Starr Street and a national historic designation area. Saved from the wrecking ball these homes are some of the best kept of that era (Whaling) anywhere.

New London Court House ca. 1787 New London Waterfront City Pier  USGA Eagle- Homeported in New London



Bank Street Looking West  Starr Street  Washington St.

From Starr Street it is a good idea to head over to a little side voyage. Follow Washington Street to the first right and follow toward Methodist Street, follow to the right and head toward Green's Alley. On the corner of Green's Alley and Methodist is the an finely restored 1790 home of a Reverend Samuel Brown.
  Follow past this home down a steep decent and to the left is 79 Green Street a ca.1799 Cape Gambrel being restored. This area was created out of the property of New London printer and noted patriot Timothy Green. His home and print shop can be seen on 158 State Street, lifted above street level. Follow toward Golden Street and here is the gallery of Golden Street. To the immediate left is 102 Golden Street and a restored 1792 Ship's Captain Home and to the other side is the Dutch Tavern in a ca. 1800 building once the waterhole of America's playwright Eugene O'Neill.  Follow toward State Street and the new Xocatl Cafe and Northern India Restaurant on State & Green.

Garde Theater on State Street. Dutch's Tavern on Green Street

Crocker House and Sites of State Street

From here other points of interest are the Ancientist Burial Ground (located not far from Huntington Street and the Court House-5 mins by car), the resting place to many of New London's founders and the staging point for the attack on Ft.Griswold by Benedict Arnold in 1781.
Also when on Huntington and Washington the area to the right features the Coit Street Historic Area. While not the world's safest area several fine period homes are re-inventing this area once ladened with serious crime. The residents are working hard to renovate the area and make it safe for everyone. Crocker House Entry   1670's Hempstead House on Hempstead Street

1759 Hugenot House on Hempstead Street

On Hempstead Street which can be reached by following Huntington Street to the first right and then down a hill and follow straight, at the light follow to the left and the house is in front of you. This 1600s home survived along with the Hugenot House (once waterfront property) the burning of New London and the hammer of urban renewal. Joshua Hempstead kept a diary of his daily affairs of life in the early 1700s and is an American gem. Tours are available of both houses and worth a stop.

Dining
Dining choices in central downtown New London have increased expodentially in the past few years. All levels and quality of food and service are available. Some of my recommended spots include:

Seafood Shacks
*Captain Scott's Lobster Deck at Shaw's Cove Marina
*Lobster on the River-Bank Street

Family/Standard Fare Dining:
*Buckley House-Bank Street
*Bank Street Java House-Bank Street
*RoadHouse-Bank Street
*NY Gourmet Deli-Bank Street
*Tavern-Bank & Blinman Street

Other with a taste:
*Zavala-Water and State Street-Real Mexican Food and entertainment
*Brie & Bleu-Bank Street- Fine Salads and snacks. A vast array of cheeses and excellent service!
*Havana-Bank Street-New to the area offering Cuban food!
*Northern India-State Street

Pubs/Taverns:
*Adagio Jazz-Golden Street
*Brass Rail-Bank Street
*Hanafins Publick House-State Street
*Bank Street RoadHouse-Bank Street
*Buckley House
*Dutch's Tavern-Green Street

Other with a sip of java:
*Mugz-Bank Street
*Thames River Greenery-State Street
*Muddy Waters-Bank Street
*Coffee & Kream-State Street
*Bank Street Java House
*Robertos-State Street
*Xoclatl-State & Green Street

Each offers a vast array of local and nationally known foods and beverages. Most have outdoor seating and views of the Thames River or main street areas. Additional restaurants and places to stop will be mentioned in later recommendations. If you fancy a "biker" type place then Bank Street Cafe is legendary and Hot Rods a new sports bar on Bank Street is ideal for you. Sofia in the former Nathaniels across from the Shaw's Mansion serves Bulgarian specialties and is worth a stop as well. The Neon Chicken at Shaw's Cove also offers interesting grilled chicken delights.

Galleries and Places of Theater and Art are numerous. Some of the most popular are:
*Hygienic
*Golden Street
*Alva Gallery

Although each and many deserve a stop as it is these groups of business people and artists that have saved New London from the wrecking ball.

Information Center is located in Eugene O'Neill Drive between Bank and Green Streets by the New London Farmer's Market just behind the Buckley House. Housed in a restored Trolley House, the visitor center is manned during the summer season but any shop owner will be happy to show you around or give you tips on what to do an see in the area.

Visitor Center  Waterfront Map of New London
New London City Hall  1st Congregational Church-State & Union Streets ca.1720

Tall Ship in New London Harbor (Master & Commander), formerly of Bridgeport, Ct the HMS Bounty.

Places to stay in downtown will be covered in the New London summary in a soon to be added BLOG entry.