Thoughts on Southern New England- A Recent Journey

I recently returned from a journey to Southern New England, one that began in Boston went through Central Massachusetts and then southward through Connecticut and I must say "ahh... nice to be home again". After having worked a few days in Boston at a technology conference I headed out of the great city of Boston toward home turf - aka. Southeastern Connecticut via the Massachusetts Turnpike. In a driving snowstorm I drove as far as Worcester stopping to enjoy a cup of dunkin donuts coffee and a flatbread sandwich.

Shortly thereafter I jumped back in my Hyundai Sonata (rental) and headed down I-395 through to Putnam and "Antiques Country". I have to be honest... I have read a lot about Putnam and the resurgence due to the antiques industry. Entering Putnam from historic Route 44 that takes one through some of the finest woodland country of the Eastern United States, one is greeted by shock and dismay. A tired old mill town, tired old homes that are in dire need of restoration and a myriad of junk shops that like to call themselves "antique shops". Apologies to those real antique shops that are found mixed in with those "others". Having no interest in stopping here I moved onward down toward my alma-matter the University of Connecticut and Storrs. Entering via that old Route 44 and then 195 I stopped by my old dormitory (gosh 20 years ago already) at Towers and was amazed by the improvements brought on by UCONN 2000 (way back when) the aggressive funding to revitalize the main campus at Storrs. I drove down through the campus and was amazed at the change and some lack of (center campus) where 1950s run down buildings were still as they were in my day "falling down". What is new at UConn is nice... what is not so new (ala 1950s) is hideous and in dire need of the wrecking ball or serious investment to bring to code. All in all I was relatively impressed by the great changes UConn has realized in the past 20 years.

I moved down through Willimantic a mill town never better with time albeit the old thread mill (American Thread) had been restored to handsome apartments and a mix of small business enterprises. Well done Willimantic! Traveling my old route I became "lost" and had to turn back toward downtown and over the Frog Bridge (Rt 32). Then southward past Windham and my favorite Pizza place of the day. Eventually arriving on I-395 again and then off at Norwich. A drive through Norwich is a favorable one. Oddly enough one can say that now after many years of stagnation and a rebirth that has saved dozens of historic buildings and is starting to teem with life again. I took three passes through the downtown area and was impressed more and more... from the old Wauregan to the homes at Chelsea and Broadway Norwich has become a handsome city again. The lack of foot traffic though should be noted but I think this will soon change... especially with gas at near 4.00 per gallon.

To the coast...

New London takes one step forward and one back, then again and again... repeating this great dance with time and re-urbanization. A chore group of enterpreneurs are slowly starting to band with a common vision of how they want to see New London. While the number of empty storefronts continues to shock there are some interesting "happenings" in New London. The Promenade a victorian style brick building going up on Bank Street across from Lucca that will feature a handsome facade, shops and residences... Gateway Commons on Bank Street continues to rise and will feature condominiuns and a gym/training area as well as a restored Carlos Restaurant Building (into NY Style Apts). Shaw's Landing seems to have been stuck at 1 building but another is planned. Devs on Bank Street opened in the old Ye Olde Tavern while Melangot has opened on State Street in the old Xocolatl offering French Farm style organic foods. Grampys Gourmet Deli has opened on Bank Street and offers a variety of local product and gourmet dinners, salads and more. Muddy Waters has gone over to "more food" items like gourmet sandwiches and salads. A welcome addition. Captain's Pizza on Bank has new owners and is looking nicer than ever. Upton Bass is moving to a location on Golden Street and renovations to the annex at the Golden Street Gallery on Green Street (http://residences.79greenstreet.com ) is moving forward and looks to finish off the last of the major restorations in that area. With Muse Shoes and Gallery and Golden Street Gallery and the new lease on life "El N Gee" aka. Backstage Pass open again this area has become a hotspot for new life, new ideas and vision. Up the street at Methodist Street a historic 1850s brick building has come to life under the stewardship of the founders of Thames River Wine, Greenery and more Charlotte Hennegan. Great job and she is about to breathe new life into the 1850s Sub Cafe on Bank Street!

The winter farmers market has taken up shop in the old California Fruit Building on Huntington Street and will eventually become "Fiddleheads" the organic garden variety niche retailer paid for by members. Bean & Leaf at New London Markets appears to be thriving with their vast array of food and coffee/tea as well as entertainment and hotspot for those 20 somethings going online. A new organic spa is opening next door to Bean & Leaf and this area now an extention of the Green and Golden Street area appears to be the central gathering place of the new group of re-urbanists and visionists in New London.

All in all New London looks better but has a ways to go. There are plans, big plans of which Fort Trumbull with a hotel and conference center, housing and a US National Coast Guard Museum are being finalized (but years away), the re-design of "the parade" in downtown New London a meeting place for New Londoners and Tourists alike for nearly 350 years looks to begin in the spring that will feature a Nathan Hale Park, statues, information and new travel lanes. Well done! Lets see some more of those historic buildings restored on Bank Street and State Street and more foot traffic and then we can hopefully say "New London has arrived... again!".

Mystic:

Mystic is that place where time stands still but is always healthy and fresh. The only backlash here is the lack of movement on the burned out central hall building on Main Street. I had hoped by 2008 (8yrs on) something would have moved forward here... whether a park or building...something would have been nice. Other than that Mystic continues to spread its wings toward Stonington's side more and more. Mystic Gourmet Market is as good as ever and the Voo Doo Grill on Water Street and Anthony J's on the Stonington Side continue to pack them in. I look forward to the central hall block being finished. One additional note... the old seafood house on Main Street with that horrific 1960s "lounge facade" has been reborn into the Ancient Mariner restaurant (not yet open) but looks to be a nice place to enjoy a meal at.

Stonington Borough:

The "brough" was quiet on the day I drove through.  We stopped at the old Monsanto Factory Parking area for a quick walk around. Wow that is nice...! A great edition to the borough and a great re-use of existing structure! The "brough" continues to evolve in a safe and metholodical pace and is always nice to drive through and of course walk through.

Niantic:

Downtown Niantic is undergoing some needed change... a new Irish Bar (Black Sheep) is opening next to IGA (Mitchells) after having won a long contested battle against the town godfather (George Mitchell). The restoration and transformation of the old Niantic Pharmacy Building moves forward (thankfully so) while 38 hope street development of handsome housing continues nearby that will give an influx of new downtowners to the Main Street drag. Flanders continues to be an eyesore, planned in the 1970s a hodge podge of styles and enterprises without soul. A major redesign is needed here to "welcome" those entering from 95 or Route 1 to the area. The Old Tinker House at Pigeon Hill on Walnut Hill Rd. is under fire. This 1750s farm may be moved for reason of a new road to support a development. If allowed this would again be another "historic mistake" that East Lyme has become so well known for... ala Calkins Tavern and more...

Other...

Essex and Old Saybrook continue to raise the bar or keep it at a higher level than most of the surrounding communities. Quality offerings in style and retail lead the way. Aspen a new bistro has opened at the touristy "Saybrook Country Barn" while Essex has seen some movement from different retailers to different locations. God willing a new restaurant could open there and offer some variety to the tastebuds of Essex and Valley"ites".  The Spa at Essex continues to offer great services at a high level. Keep it up!

Old Lyme continues to be Old Lyme...I was amazed by the Florence Griswold House on Route 1. Galleries for me... are well galleries to me. However with local artists impressions of the local and CT landscape at the turn of the 19th century I was never more relaxed at a museum / gallery. Well done on a restoration as well!

Upward toward and through the River Valley my journey took me as far as Haddam and Higganum Village... two sleepy inland areas. Higganum is more of the "bedroom" of the area while Haddam is the more historic part with a handful of businesses (some found in Higganum as well). Deep River a little less sleepy but none the less "sleepy" is quaint and offers the rich and famous a nice water/river front location for their McMansion- albeit very aesthetically pleasing!

The main shopping destinations of Clinton and Westbrook have changed little with their outlets while Groton has not yet turned the corner. The riverfront on the Thames (Groton Bank) continues to carry on like the ugly duckling of the region. The Avery-Copp house, Paul's Pasta and Ft.Griswold are about the only worthwhile stops (ok Submarine memorial) from the bridge to the golf course at Shennacosset. An aggressive re-development plan is needed in this area.

All in all my impressions are positive of the region, some change is needed some not ... but this all makes for an interesting place to return to over and over again.